Replacing the Rotors on Our Honda Odyssey — A First-Time DIY Brake Job
- The Best Life Awaits
- 2 days ago
- 4 min read
Updated: 1 day ago
When my daughter started learning to drive, she practiced in our old minivan.
It’s big, clunky, scratched, dented, and well-worn — in other words, perfect for a new driver.
But once she got her license and began driving full time, “good enough” wasn’t good enough.
The vehicle needed to be safe.
We replaced the wipers.
We installed a new battery.
We put on fresh tires.
And then came the big one: new rotors and brake pads.
How We Knew the Rotors Were Bad
The symptom was unmistakable.
At higher speeds, when applying the brakes, the steering wheel shook violently.
The entire front end vibrated.
On a trip home from Humboldt County, we had to brake suddenly — and the shaking was so intense it was difficult to keep the vehicle straight.
That was the moment we knew: this had to be fixed before our daughter drove the van again.
Full Disclosure
I’m not a mechanic.
I’m not a “car guy"
I had never done major automotive repairs.
And I didn’t even own the tools.
But I also didn’t want to spend $500+ on an old vehicle we had considered selling more than once.
So I decided to take the risk and do it myself.
What It Cost
Yes, the irony is real.
Total cost for tools and parts: $490, estimated shop repair: ~$500
So technically, I saved about $10.
Not impressive… at first.
But those tools didn’t disappear. Later repairs — struts, lower control arms, tie rods, shocks — ended up saving us over $5,000. That “$10 savings” was actually the beginning of something much bigger.
Here’s the breakdown:
Rotors and pads: $200
Jack: $40 (don’t go too cheap here)
Torque wrench: $30 (also don’t go too cheap)
Sil-Glyde brake lubricant: $11
Rags: $16
Anti-seize: $7
1/2" to 3/8" adapter: $4
Jack stands: $29
Brake cleaner: $9
1/2" socket set (21-piece): $30
Open-end wrench set (14-piece): $25
Hammer drill: $46
And yes — that hammer drill became very important.
How It Almost Fell Apart Immediately
The first thing I did after removing the tire?
I stripped the rotor retaining screw.
Instant panic.
One screw came out. The other was stuck. I was already nervous about tackling brakes, and now I was convinced I had ruined the job before it began.
Trip #1 to the auto parts store.
I bought an impact/hammer drill and what I was told was a replacement screw.
The drill worked. Crisis averted.
Or so I thought.
The Warped Rotor Disaster
After installing the first new rotor and reinstalling the bracket, I spun it proudly — only to hear scraping.
The rotor was hitting the bracket.
More panic.
After checking and rechecking my work multiple times, I finally realized: the rotor itself was warped.
Brand new — and bent badly.
Trip #2 to the auto parts store.
The Wrong Parts Problem
This time I bought a different set of rotors.
Installed them.
They didn’t fit.
I was seconds from giving up — until I realized they were rear rotors, not front.
Trip #3 to the auto parts store.
At this point, my confidence was hanging by a thread.
Finally, Something Goes Right
The correct rotors slid on smoothly.
I spun it.
No scraping.
It turned freely and perfectly.
I cleaned all brake components with brake cleaner, wire-brushed corrosion, lubricated contact points properly, installed new clips and hardware, mounted the caliper bracket, torqued everything to spec, installed the new pads and springs — and it all came together smoothly.
After hours of stress, it suddenly felt easy.
The driver’s side took a fraction of the time. Experience is a powerful thing.
The 15-Cent Lesson
Remember that stripped screw?
The replacement from the auto parts store was too small.
No one carried the correct size.
I eventually found a matching screw at Ace Hardware for 15 cents.
All that stress… for fifteen cents.
What I Learned
Most fear comes from unfamiliarity.
The right tools make all the difference.
Mistakes are part of the process.
Just because you pay someone doesn’t mean the job was done perfectly.
In fact, while doing this repair, I discovered the previous mechanic had:
Installed brake pads on opposite sides (the wear indicator tab — the “screech tab” — should be positioned at the leading edge of the rotor).
Omitted pad hardware springs (which may or may not have been intentional, but the new pads included them).
The brakes now operate smoothly with no vibration — even under heavy braking.
The Bigger Picture
This job didn’t save much money at first.
But it gave me:
Tools
Confidence
Mechanical understanding
The ability to tackle major suspension repairs later
Since this video our van has been declared totaled after a minor accident and needed significant work to pass safety inspection.
I’ve since replaced the front suspension components myself — a far more complex job — and saved thousands.
That story is coming soon.
If you're hesitant about doing your own brakes, I understand completely. I was too. But once you break through the first repair, you realize something important: It’s not about being a “car person.”It’s about being willing to learn. And once you do, the intimidation disappears.
Stay tuned for the next repair.
In this video I'll go over what I did, how much it cost, and you can decide if it's worth it or not.
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